By Heikal Kenneded
A few days ago I paid an
impromptu visit to Mogadishu and I was determined to get a good-feel about the
old city and how it was faring lately after three years of relative peace. I
was not the least disappointed for the first time in decades – much rather rejoiced.
My initial skepticism of the city’s recent evolution was immediately affronted
by the immense transformation achieved over the past few years. I was
captivated by the aura of the entire city that was priming with new vitality
and renaissance like recovery of its old charm, unlike my last visit in 2011,
when I felt visiting a city hit with strong earthquake. Mogadishu no longer
looks like a downtrodden city from the Middle Ages, but rather a vibrant city
with so much potential and captivating charm that takes hold of you and never
wants to let you go. Despite all this, the city has still miles to claim of its
old nickname as Pearl of the Indian Ocean; nevertheless, the road to a
remarkable recovery is well underway and there’s no turning back. Thus,
there’s every reason to believe that Mogadishu’s worst days are behind her
and the future is as clear as its blue sky.
I was
enthralled not only by the intense rebuilding of war-ravished buildings along
city’s major streets, but by the spirit of hopefulness amongst the city’s
populace, as if by resolve alone they could restore their city’s place in
history. The biggest change is showcased by Turkey’s unprecedented
soft-power, which has given the city a new lease in life and all Somalis around
the world feel in awe and indebted forever to their brothers-in-faith who came
to their rescue in the city’s darkest hour. Thanks to the Turkey’s faith on the
city’s strategic potential, Mogadishu’s decrepit infrastructure has
tremendously improved and most of the city’s historic landmarks have been
shaped to their original shape and design. For
instance, the city’s new modern terminal at Aden Ade
International airport with gleaming spacious departure and arrival halls
captures your eyes as soon as one descends onto the incandescent tarmac of the
city’s airport. Another
modern face of the city’s future is the Turkish renovated hospital Digfer
(renamed after Turkish President, Erdogan) in Mogadishu, which boasts 200-bed
with Training and Research Hospital. Not to mention the ever-bright
solar-powered streetlights that has tremendously improved the city’s overall
safety, not to mention increasing businesses to attract more customers.
Another commendable
achievement belongs to the city’s relentless mayor and governor of the Banadir region, General
Mungab who seems to possess the qualities of another American General, Patton
who was nicknamed “Old Blood and Guts.” The mayor is credited to
have single-handedly transformed the city’s general outlook for the better,
unlike his predecessor who spoke the loudest, but accomplished little to show
for it. General Mungab who
only came to office in a little more than a year ago by presidential decree, since taking office, he has
accomplished various reforms intended to consolidating the city’s district
administrations and spearheaded district developmental projects. For instance,
the mayor carried out important renovation projects at government centers
throughout the city and created a task force to carryout municipal
beautification campaigns intended to improve the city's general outlook and
bring back its old attractions alive. In fact, I have witnessed with my own
eyes how incessantly the city’s streets and other important landmarks are
cleaned every day.
Apparently, the word is out,
Mogadishu is open for business and a plethora of non-governmental organizations
(NGOs) and institutions in such areas as education, health, sports and
peace-building had been allowed to spring up, often encroaching on government
ministries. In addition, the true creativity and resilience of
Somalia's business community is once again thriving and sky is the limit for
their potential to turn the country around into the Horn’s business hub. For example, I was able to
witness how enthusiastically the business community in the Bakaara market
joined forces to rebuild the main streets of the market with their own money
and resources. These sorts of initiatives will eventually translate into job
creation and prevention of Somali youths from being idle and taking to the
seas, or much worse joining into terrorism.
However, the one thing that
almost nobody in Mogadishu discusses is politics in the country and the city’s
residents mostly contend to tend on their own lives, unlike Somalis in the
Diaspora who seem to feed on and quite often relish on such double-dealing
world of Somali politics.
In other words, it seems as though the city’s residents became innocuous to the
false promises of various forms of governments who promised heaven and earth to
change the way government business is run, nevertheless failed miserably and
only to disappoint everyone. Most people show political-fatigue over successive
governments’ constant squabble over whom to appoint important posts that
eventually results in political paralysis, not to mention the constant reports
of widespread corruption of government officials. Moreover, the government
terribly failed to foil most of the security threats posed by the remnants of
Al-Shabab and other vicious contract killings that incessantly haunt the city’s
residents.
Further, despite all the
achievements of the city’s emergence from the last quarter century’s failed
state, targeted killing of politicians and other relevant professionals, such
engineers and educators carried out by callous death squads is still rampant,
not to mention the constant suicide bombers who continuously rock the city to
its core. This has the consequential effect of most people remaining indoors
after dusk, except those fateful brazen ones who without a care crisscross the
city’s debilitating many checkpoints manned by fearful looking soldiers wearing
face masks
Another
challenge for the city’s residences is relearning tolerance for difference because
the city seems to lack its greatest asset as an old metropolitan – cultural
diversity. Since at the
dawn of the civil war, cultural diversity has been driven out of town and it
was replaced by a different kind of diversity where the same clans are fighting
for space and for economic and political control of the city. Nonetheless,
Mogadishu will never be the same again without the safe return of its
historical cultural diversity that gave the city its unique identity and
exceptional aura. In effect,
what the city’s residents need to focus on and practice daily is how to live
with each other, to accept each other’s differences and to turn in peace
spoilers. The city needs to promote new kind of schools, libraries, cultural
centers and playgrounds for the young generation to grow without fear of bombs
exploding in their midst. Then the city’s residents may be able to enjoy the
sound of music to start playing again, a true form of renaissance. Nobody can
change what has happened over the last 25 years, but if everyone starts
thinking ‘what if’ today, the story will not be in the telling but in the
thinking for a better tomorrow.